Gravenstein Apple Fair - A Sweet Slice of Americana

There was a time not long ago when the word “heirloom” was used strictly in reference to prized family possessions, a stick of furniture or a precious keepsake, passed on from generation to generation. Today, the term encompasses more than Great Grandma Josephine’s sideboard. You could say that the value of an heirloom has never waned, but the term has taken on a broader meaning. Take tomatoes; or flower seeds; or apples, for instance. Gardeners and foodies the world over have developed a passion for the preservation of tried-and-true, antiquated varieties of produce, flowers, even livestock for our gustatory pleasure.

Gravensteins are an heirloom variety of apple, prized for their sweet-tart flavor and snappy crunch. It’s a great out-of-hand eating apple, but it may be best known as the perfect applesauce fruit. Not familiar with the red/green/gold beauties? You’re not alone, as Gravenstein production has waned in the last century.

In my research, I found some discrepancy as to where the Gravenstein originated, with Germany, Denmark, even Italy staking claim to its origins. Heritage notwithstanding, it was declared the national fruit of Denmark in 2005, the same year that Slow Food USA declared it a heritage food, and included it in its Ark of Taste, an international catalog of foods in danger of extinction.

These are the high-maintenance beauty queens of the apple world. In comparison to many apple varieties, Gravensteins are not the best keepers, don’t travel well, and because of their short stems and varying ripening times, are difficult to harvest. A significant part of the crop’s annual yield is ground fruit, used for products like cider vinegar, applesauce and juice. Problem is, the money that farmers are paid for this ‘ground crop’ barely justifies the effort to stoop down to pick it up. With only 900 acres of Gravenstein orchards left in Sonoma County, many growers have turned to more profitable crops, like wine grapes. But despite the difficulties of raising this problem child, preserving this gem can be rewarding in and of itself.

Bright acidity, vibrant color variations and the heady apple perfume this apple produces when cooked is the hallmark of the Gravenstein. Although not my personal favorite for pies (the apples don’t remain firm when cooked), it’s darned-near perfect for making applesauce and my personal fave, apple butter (recipe to follow).

When I first heard of the Gravenstein Apple Fair, my inner cynic went into overdrive, silently poo-pooing it sight-unseen as yet another overpriced, over-commercialized gathering of apple-themed gee-gaws and doo-daddery that would leave my pockets empty and my hopes dashed (yet again) for some real Apple Pie Americana. Happily, I couldn’t have been more mistaken.

To say this event charmed the pants off me would be an understatement. From the free parking to the skewer-the-apple dart toss, this Sebastopol institution, which celebrated its 100th year anniversary, has proven that a true country fair does exist in this instant text message society that we live in today. This one’s the real deal.

Replete with farm equipment, livestock, fresh-scrubbed 4H competetitors, and of course, all things Gravenstein, this is a country fair in the true sense of the term. Excellent food, live music, apple-pie eating contest (for both kids and the bigger, kid-at-heart), free parking, not to mention prices that harken back to 1985. Bottled water for $1?? Slice of apple pie for $2?? Food vendors selling real food priced fairly, including Grandma’s apple fritter stand, with grandma at the helm, offering a sweet smile as you hand over your three bucks for a heaping basket of her fresh, hot apple fritters. Mayberry's got nothin' on this place....

Need a drink? Water, iced tea, lemonade, and of course apple juice and cider were plentiful. A small brew and wine tent was also present, if you needed something a little stronger to slake your thirst. Coke and Pepsi? I'm happy to report, those corporate logos were nowhere to be seen.

Our first stop was the Hot Cheese booth, for the legendary grilled cheese sammie from the equally legendary chef John Ash. We each ordered an ‘original’ (although the curried apple number sounded almost too good to pass up), along with a glass of cucumber/mint water (totally refreshing). What arrived five minutes letter was near cheesy perfection.

For $7, my plate brimmed with a buttery grilled-cheese sandwich, a small cup of fresh and herbal tomato soup, a second small cup of house-made zucchini pickles and crispy sweet potato fries. We sat elbow-to-elbow at community tables, draped in red and white checks, on rows of hay bales, delighting in the stretchy cheese and buttered fingers we encountered with each bite. Finger-lickin' good.

After lunch, we moseyed, watched a cooking demo, admired some exotic birds, plumed chickens, moseyed some more, pitched a few darts (and won 10 lbs of apples for our trouble). Before we exited, a 20lb box of organic Gravensteins found its way to our car, destined for A. sauce and A. butter greatness.

A breath of fresh, country air in Sonoma County. I'll be back to help them celebrate 101 years, for sure....

To join Slow Food USA and learn about the wonderful things they do, and more about endangered foods, go to slowfoodusa.com.

Apple Butter

• 4 lbs gravenstein apples
• 1/2 cup apple cider vinegar
• 2-1/2 cups water
• Sugar (about 4 cups, see cooking instructions)
• 1 tsp
  
• 1 tblsp. cinnamon (or to taste)
  
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cloves

Cut the apples into quarters, without peeling or coring them (much of the pectin is in the cores and flavor in the peels), cutting out any bruises, or worm holes. Put them into large pot with the vinegar and water, cover, bring to a boil; reduce heat to simmer, cook until apples are soft, about 20 minutes. Remove from heat.

Ladle apple mixture into a foodmill and process to a puree (the skins and seeds will remain behind inside the mill). Measure resulting puree. Add about 1/2 cup of sugar for each cup of apple pulp. Stir to dissolve sugar. Add salt, cinnamon and ground cloves. If you like your apple butter more tart, lor more sweet and/or spicy, you can adjust the sugar and spices to your taste. Just remember, this will cook down quite and bit, and your flavors will meld together and intensify as the butter cooks. You can always add more in the last 2 hours of cooking.

Place the seasoned apple puree in a crock pot. Set on low and cook with lid slightly ajar for about 12 hours (I start mine about 7pm, stir it a couple of times before bed, and then check it in the morning.

Butter should have morphed into a lovely mahogany hue, and be as fragrant as an apple pie on steroids.

At this point, you can follow any manufacturers instructions and properly can your butter. I choose to divide mine in 8oz glass or plastic jars, and share with friends. The remainder, if there is any, can be kept in the freezer.